With so many beauty products to choose from, creating a skin care routine that’s right for you can be overwhelming and at times a gamble not only with your money but your skin too. The number of steps in suggested beauty routines always seems to be on the rise…should you be doing to 3, 7, 10, 12???

The thing with skin is that not all beauty products and routines are a one size fits all. One persons holy grail is another’s bathroom shelf reject but by learning and assessing what your skin actually needs you can curate and tailor a beauty routine that’s specific to you.  In short, be your own beauty guru.

Some days it’s a good cleanse, spf and go, on others you may find your skin needs a little more attention before going about your day. What remains universal when it comes to skincare is that you layer your products correctly so that they can work at their optimum and always wear broadscreen sun protection.

Think of your beauty routine as consisting of these four groups.

Cleanse, Concentrate, Calm and Canvas.

You can then organise your beauty products within them and layer accordingly.

I prefer to keep my AM routine light, gentle and speedy and keep my actives (chemical exfoliants, peels, masks, retinol ) for PM. I may use a low strength chemical exfoliant of a morning, it just depends on what my skin needs but always finish with a dedicated SPF product before any make up.

You also need to take into consideration what other treatment products you’ll be using after cleansing. Too many high strength actives in your routine can not only impair other products from working if they’re not layered correctly but can also overwhelm and irritate the skin. It’s always best to start with one or two products with gentle formulations to let your skin build up tolerance and always patch test. 🤓

Formula and consistency are also important factors to consider when layering  your products as they’ll have a bearing on the speed at which they’ll get to work. Watery/gel like consistencies will deliver quicker as opposed to emulsion/creams which will act more as a buffer to prevent irritation.  pH levels are another factor you need to consider when applying active products such as toners, serums and treatments. After cleansing you apply from low to high. The more acidic a product is the lower it’s pH.

A good intro to acids are cleansers and low strength toners.  Your skin will have shorter contact time with the active ingredients in a cleanser as you’ll be washing it of rather than leaving it on the way you would say with a toner, serum or mask.

There are active skincare products designed to be used daily but every day chemical exfoliating, especially when you’re just starting out isn’t necessary and will be too much especially for those with sensitive skins.

Go gently and introduce actives one at a time, that way it’s easier to pinpoint if something doesn’t agree with your skin. A tingle is normal and so is a a little redness. It’s also a good idea to try and avoid any unnecessary fragrances in actives, they aren’t useful and can be an irritant.

Before introducing  actives/acids into your skincare routine, know your A,B,C’s…

 Chemical Exoliants

These groups of glorious skin care acids are designed to chemicaly exfoliate your skin in their own unique way by removing dead skin cells, brighten skin tone, improve skin texture, minimise fine lines, stimulate collagen production, treat and prevent acne , even skin tone and boost hydration and product absorption.

•  AHA’s –  Alpha Hydroxy Acid. Most commonly used are Glycolic (derived from sugar cane & sugary fruits) Lactic (derived from sour milk). Water soluble, they help improve hydration and exfoliate the upper surface of the of the skin to reveal smoother brighter skin underneath. Glycolic acid is stronger and can penetrate deeper and quicker than lactic acid and other AHA’s thanks to it’s smaller molecular structure. However stronger doesn’t mean better, you might get on with lower strength products that you can use more regularly if that’s what your skin is better suited to. Those with sensitive skins will find formulas with Lactic acid more gentle and ideal for building up tolerance.  Best to start with low concentrations of around 5% with either acid unless your already in the acid game and know what you’re doing.

AHA’s are ideal for those with dry, dull, sun damaged, fine lines and acne proned skins.

• BHA’s – Beta Hydroxy Acids. Most commonly used is Salicylic (derived from the bark of willow trees and wintergreen leaves) Oil soluble, so it can work deeper than AHA’s into the skin to unclog pores to fight acne and help dissolve black heads and white heads. It’s related to aspirin so it has anti inflammatory and antibacterial properties too which is ideal for calming any redness caused by acne. Helps to regulate skin cell function by slowing down skin’s oil production. Their larger molecule size means they are less likely to irritate the skin which AHA’s can. BHA exfoliants are formulated between 0.5 – 5%. If you’re new to BHA’s it’s ideal to start with products formulated at 1%.

BHA’s are ideal for oily and acne proned skins but not restricted to. They can be used daily as they’re more gentle than AHA’s but they can also be a little drying if your skin isn’t particularly. AHA’s and BHA’s offer similar  skin care benefits, including hyperpigmentation issues. You may find you get on better with a formula that combines both or by alternating them. 🤓

• PHA’s – Polyhydroxy Acids. Most common are Gluconolactone (naturally occurring food additive), Galactose (sugar) and Lactobionic acid (derived from milk sugars). They are the second generation of AHA’s with larger molecular structures than their predecessor so they work much more gently to exfoliate the skins surface. PHA’s also help to strengthen skin barrier function and most contain antioxidant properties, especially ones formulated with Gluconolactone, it’s the anti oxidant hero of PHA’s.  They’re also great for boosting the skins hydration levels thanks to their powerful humectant properties. Currently there’s a few PHA products available and you can find formulations between 3 – 10%. I’m  not sure much exfoliation would happen below 10% which is still very gentle but if you have any serious skin issues then please consult a medical professional  before using any chemical exfoliant/actives.

PHA’s are formulated for those who can’t tolerate AHA’s or BHA’s but I really want to stop short and say that even though they’re mentioned online as being suitable for those with very sensitive and or dry skin issues such as eczema, rosacea and atopic dermatitis, please check with a medical professional. The last thing you want to do is further compromise the strength of your skin barrier function.

The Cleansers

   AHA

 Alpha H Liquid Gold Resurfacing Cleansing Cream £36.95

   BHA

 Cosrx Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser £9.50

                BHA

The Inkey List Salicylic Cleanser  £10.99

 

            PHA

Neostrata Restore PHA Facial Cleanser £31

The Toners

                      AHA

Pixi Glow Tonic £18

               AHA/BHA

Ren Clarifying Toner £18 

                      AHA/BHA

Cosrx Clarifying Treatment Toner  £15

     PHA

Exuviance Soothing Toning Lotion £24.50

             PHA/BHA

Geek and Gorgeous Calm Down PHA/BHA Liquid 

 

The Treatments (pm 1-3 times a week)

                          AHA

Alpha H Liquid Gold £33.50

                   AHA

Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment £85

                BHA

Cosrx BHA Blackhead Power Liquid £18.00

Daily Exfoliation (still best to introduce slowly into your routine) 

              AHA/BHA/PHA

Glossier Solution £19

                      BHA

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting BHA Liquid Exfoliant £8

                           AHA

Paula’s Choice AHA Lotion Exfoliant £10

Serums (am)

                  PHA

GOW PHA Plus Serum £14

         BHA

Face Theory BHA Exfoliating Serum £18.99

Serums (pm)

                     AHA

Drunk Elephant Night Serum £76

                  AHA

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA £5.50

The Pads

          PHA

Zelens PHA Bio Peel Facial Resurfacing Pads £65

          AHA

Nip & Fab Glycolic Fix Daily Cleansing Pads £12.95

           AHA

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads £25

The Peels

                     AHA

Ren Glycol Lactic radiance renewal Mask £36

               AHA/BHA

The Ordinary AHA 30% + 2% BHA Peeling Solution £6.25

 

  Hydration

HA – Hyaluronic Acid. Powerful moisture binding humectant that our bodies naturally produce but decreases as we age. In beauty products it’s synthetically derived (no harvesting from human bodies that I know of)  Holds a 1000 Times it’s weight in water. Predominantly used as a hydrating ingredient (also used in fillers).

It’s a great product for those with oilier skins but it has a tendency to be quite drying on others if it’s just used on it’s own. This is down to its water attracting capabilities, if your skin is dry and and your environment is equally so then your not actively getting any more hydration, you’re losing it. In my kit I always keep a few different formulations of HA as some are more hydrating than others.

HA as a topical skin ingredient is not really an anti ager (despite some misleading claims) as the molecules are too large to penetrate the skins epidermis to have an effect on collagen production. It may help smooth the appearance of fine lines by hydrating but it’s not going to erase from them from your life.

Indeed Labs Hydraluron Moisture Boosting Facial Serum £24.99

La Roche Posay Hydraphase Intense Light £13.94

Hado Labo Plumping Perfect Gel £8.32 + shipping £4.93

 

 Antioxidants

L-AA – L- Ascorbic Acid. Water soluble and found in lots of fruit and veg. Very potent, making it the most beneficial and effective form of vitamin C for it’s anti oxidant and anti aging properties. It helps to brighten, smooth, firm,  fade sun spots, boost collagen and protect against UV damage caused by free radicals. The L-AA works optimally under  PH 3.5  and can be used as low as PH 2.3. Our skin is around PH 5.4 so its potency is not to be undermined. Topically using  it at such a low levels in beauty products can lead to irritation for sensitive, dry skin and breakouts for acne proned skins, in which case using a formula that uses a derivative of L-AA is recommended instead. Once applied allow 15 mins before applying another product. The wait time allows you to get the most out of this anti oxidant for its collagen boosting abilities.

Skin care containing L ascorbic Acid needs to be formulated and stored appropriately.  Make sure to look for products with airtight and dark/opaque packaging as it’s highly unstable and breaks down when exposed to sunlight and air causing oxidation at which point it won’t be as effective. You will notice this when serums that were once clear have turned a yellowy brown colour. Oxidation also causes a similar coloured tinge on the skin if not used correctly.  Thinner consistencies are ideal as they’re absorbed faster into the skin thereby avoiding prolonged contact with oxygen. Applying an oil after helps to act as a sealant giving added protection from oxidation.

Needs to be applied after cleansing onto DRY skin before using any other skin care product that includes acid toners if you use them in your routine. (remember those PH levels..layer low to high).

Brands that formulate their products with other added anti oxidants, in particular Ferulic acid, resveratrol and Vit E, are the ones to invest in as these added antioxidants are highly efficient at stabilising this potent form of Vit C. Concentrations of Vit C ideally need to start at 10 % to be effective.

• Derivatives of L-AA – Pros- More stable and less of an irritant. Ideal for sensitive skins. Not PH dependent. Cons- Less studies on the effectiveness of these forms but plenty of positive online reviews to suggest they work well by those who have used these forms of vitamin C.  Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmite, Ascorbyl Palmate – Fat soluble- Better suited to sensitive and acne proned skins.  Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – Water Soluble- Best for pigmentation issues.

Potent L-AA

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic £135

Medik8 C Tetra Intense £50

Dermalogica Biolumin C Serum £76

 

Ferulic Acid – Powerful antioxidant derived from the cell walls of plants such as wheat, rice, peanuts & corn. 🚫 If you have any allergies towards the foods above or are unsure, avoid or patch test before using.  Increases and stabilises the potency of L- ascorbic Acid and Vitamin E. Great for dry skins.

Niacinamide – Also known as Vitamin B3. Water soluble.  Another powerful antioxidant.  Found in many of the foods we eat, from animal proteins, almonds and sunflower seeds. Potential benefits of B3, hydration, anti-acne, anti inflammatory, uneven skin tone, fine lines, improves skin’s barrier function and regulates skins oil production.

Potential irritant to those with niacinamide sensitivity. Symptoms reported are itching, redness and break outs. Always patch test and be mindful of using it alongside  actives in your skin care.

Niacinamide has a PH 5-7 so be mindful of combining with  with L-ascorbic acid, AHA’s, BHA’s in quick succession especially if you have sensitive skin.  Combining L-AA and Niacinamide can cause skin redness and flushing, which isn’t in itself harmful and clears after 20 mins. To avoid this side effect just alternate your actives or wait 30 mins between.

Porebright N10 Serum £14.99

The Ordinary Niacinamide £5

 

Spot Treatments/Retinoids

AzA – Azelaic Acid.   This naturally occurring acid found in whole grain cereals, rye and barley, is a powerhouse when it comes to fighting acne.  In comparative studies with prescription retinoids including 0.05 Trentinoin, 5% Benzoyl Peroxide and Accutane,  Azelaic Acid at 20% was found to be as equally effective as an acne treatment as Trentinoin and Benzoyl Peroxide. Compared with Accutane both sets of patients were cleared of cystic acne 100% in 6 months but Accutane was around 11-13% more effective than Azelaic Acid in reducing clogged pores, white heads and pimples.

Not too shabby at all in comparison and with less of the side effects typically experienced from using prescribed acne treatments such as dry, peeling, flaky and irritated skin. You can find over the counter without prescription from   8-10% although there are less studies proving their efficacy. However there are many positive reviews online by those who have used them lower concentrations. Azelaic Acid is also used as an anti inflammatory, can help lighten hyperpigmentation, age spots, calm redness, treat rosacea and displays  anti bacterial properties. Despite its origins and in case you’re wondering it’s gluten free too. 🤓

Benzoyl Peroxide –  A prescription and non prescription treatment for mild to moderate acne that can be used on its own or in conjunction with salicylic acid ( i.e salicylic in your AM routine and BP at night). BP kills the bacteria that causes acne and salicylic acid exfoliates and unclog spores.

To avoid overdrying and irritating your skin which can cause more breakouts use on alternate nights. Concentrations of 2.5%, 4%, 5% and 10% are available over the counter. Always start with the lowest concentration, it’s a very strong medical topical treatment that’s also used as bleaching agent so you must use this product carefully. Avoid contact with hair , clothing and furnishings.

A light, non comedogenic and fragrance free moisturiser can be used before applying BP to act as a buffer. Apply again around 10-15 mins after your spot treatment to keep your  skin hydrated and moisturised.  Increases photosensitivity, you must wear broad spectrum sunscreen.

If you have dry and or sensitive skin, avoid using this treatment. Results are cumulative and you need to be consistent with application. If you’ve been prescribed BP on its own or in combination with another medical treatment then please use as advised by your medical professional.  Do not continue to use BP if you experience stinging, swelling and severe redness.

 

Retinoic Acid  – Differin (adapalene), Tretinoin (Retin A).

Powerful and potent synthetic derivative of Vitamin A. These topical retinoids are prescribed to treat acne and are also used as an anti aging treatment. A number of studies have proven their effectiveness at treating acne as well as reducing fine lines and wrinkles.  Differin at 0.01% can be purchased online at Boots but you’ll need to complete an online consultation first. For anything stronger and the Tretinion, it’s prescription only, both are available as a cream or gel. Should really only be applied at night and not consecutively unless advised by a medical professional.  Both cause photosensitivity so sunscreen again is a must, at least SPF 30, not an option.

Side effects, dryness, flaking, peeling, redness  and itching.  Breakouts can occur for acne proned skins but these side effects improve as the skin becomes more tolerant.  A light, non comedogenic and fragrance free moisturiser can be used before applying to act as a buffer.  30 -45 mins after you’ve applied the treatment apply moisturiser (again non comedogenic etc especially for acne proned skins) that’s richer, more nourishing and with no alchohol.

Results are cumulative and can take at least three to six months before you see any, patience is key.  Should not be used during pregnancy and is not recommended for those who have rosacea or very sensitive skin.

Retinol —Pure form of Vitamin A. In skincare it can be synthetically or naturally derived form of Vit A. Used primarily as an anti aging treatment. Benefits of using retinol, smooth even toned skin, increase in skin cell turnover and collagen production which helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

When applied topically it goes through a two step conversion before turning into retinoic acid. This conversion means  it will be more gentle, less of an irritant but work slower than retinoic acid. Retinol comes in different strengths from 0.01% to 2%.  Depending on the strength of the formula you may experience side effects similar to retinoic acid but not as severe as many brands have developed formulas  that are designed to minimise them so that even sensitive skins can use them. If you experience burning, severe red and peeling skin then stop using. It maybe that you’re applying to much, have used a concentration that’s too strong or you may not be able to tolerate retinol.

It’s essential to find retinol products that are well formulated and packaged.  If the retinol isn’t stabilised and the formula is exposed to light and heat, the retinol breaks down making the product redundant. Packaging needs to be airtight and opaque, if retinol degrades before it reaches its target it won’t work. It needs a protective delivery system so it can travel deeper into the dermis where it needs to be effective. Look for brands that label their formulations as ‘stabilised’ or who utilise liposomal, microcapsule or peptide technology so you know the retinol doesn’t go MIA.  For acne and oil proned skins avoid oil/silicone based formulas.

To benefit from retinols you need to be committed, it can take a minimum of three months to see results. Start with lower concentrations and use just once or twice a week to begin with. Apply at night  to clean dry skin using just a pea sized amount and leave for 30 mins before applying any oils or moisturisers.  Should not be used during pregnancy.  SPF is essential.

La Roche Posay Redermic R £25.05

Alpha Vit A 0.5% £39

 

The Routine

You don’t have to have a routine everyday that incorporates chemical exfoliants and other actives. Some days it’s just about keeping it simple by choosing products that cleanse, hydrate and protect. It’s quite easy to end up on autopilot and apply products that your skin might be better of without for a day or so.

CLEANSE

The first and most essential step is a good cleanse. You’re preparing the skin to absorb products that are targeted to your skins needs. Do a good job and your serums, treatments will do theirs.

Wether you make it a single or double its up to you. A single cleanse should be enough in the morning as long as you’ve thoroughly cleansed of an evening to make sure all make up and SPF has been removed.

Cleansers come in a variety of formulas, oils, balms, creams, milks, gels and micellar waters. Look at your skin first thing in the morning, does it need hydration, exfoliation, oil control, or balancing?  The drier your skin is then opt for richer formulas.  My skin usually needs a little hydration so I love using milk cleansers of a morning and of a night I’ll use make up remover followed by an oil cleanser or balm then an AHA cleansing milk or micellar.

To optimise the rest of your skin care routine you need to use toners.  They help prep your skin to absorb more effectively any skincare products you’ll be using next. They’re primarily used for hydrating, balancing and exfoliating.  I use one or two depending on what other products I decide to use in the next steps. For example morning is usually about hydrating, brightening and protecting. Some mornings I’ll use a Vit C serum (LAA) and because it’s a fairly potent form of Vit C, I’ll either use a gentle AHA exfoliant or a balancing toner to bring my skin back to its normal PH level (tap water can be anything from PH 6.5 to 9.5, skin is PH 4 to 5.5).  To get the most from your Vit C product you need to acidify the skin first.

I’ll leave the Vit C serum to do it’s thing, get dressed, coffee or tea, check e mails etc then I’ll use a hydrating  toner mist and apply my moisturiser, a dedicated SPF then make up.

Exfolating toners (AHA, BHA, PHA) can be used in the form of pads, tonics and lotions. There are formulations that can be used daily and stronger ones that can be used at night as a treatment two to three times a week.

CONCENTRATE

If you use eye creams/gels then they need to be applied before serums.

Active skincare products such as serums, masks, peels, treatments  fall into this group. Apart from serums and if advised a couple of acne treatments, you pretty much want to use the rest of these products in your evening routine but not consecutively, especially if you’re using a high strength chemical peel. If and when you decide to these I would avoid using any chemical exfoliants and retinoids at least a couple of  days either side so you don’t over exfoliate and irritate your skin. Always work your way up with the strength of your actives.

If you’re using spot treatments during the day please apply as advised by the label or a medical professional. Many spot treatment products are more suited to a night routine but some can be applied during the day as long as they dry clear.

Serums are the most potent formula to get your fix of antioxidants and hydration as they’re more concentrated. If you’ve cleansed and toned with chemical exfoliants I would stick to just using serums that calm and hydrate. Use them after cleansing and toning and before your moisturiser. If you want to apply a couple of targeted serums then apply thinnest consistency first. Water before oils.  It’s absolutely fine to layer serums that hydrate and calm the skin without alternating days, AM/PM or waiting 30 mins but you need to be mindful with serums that contain actives such as Vit C, retinols, AHA/BHA’s and niacinamide.

Niacinamide + Retinol ✔️

Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid ✔️

Benzoyl peroxide + Retinol ✖️

Niacinamide + AHA/BHA ✖️ Unless combined in a formula keep them separate and alternate AM/PM or wait 30 mins in between.

AHA/BHA + L-AA ✖️ Very potent strengths of these products should not be layered in quick succession. It’s fine to use a gentle strength chemical exfoliant if your skin can tolerate both.  Otherwise alternate days or AM/PM.

AHA/BHA/PHA + Retinol ✖️ Keep these actives separate.  Ideal to use acids for AM and retinols PM or wait 30 mins in between. You could also alternate, so acids one night and retinols another.

L-AA + Retinol ✖️ Keep separate, L-AA for AM and Retinol PM or alternate nights.

L-AA + Niacinamide ✔️  Combined formulas available.  If you use them as separates and don’t want to experience the flushing side effects wait 30 mins.

Skin peels and masks can be very potent and I strongly advise you to use low strength gentle formulas if you’ve never used them before and use as directed. Best used in a night routine or if you have no plans and won’t be out in the sun then during the  day is fine. Avoid using any other forms of chemical exfoliation and retinols one or two days either side of a peel depending on how strong the peel is. Always follow up with a rich non fragranced moisturiser. If you’re on medically prescribed exfoliant products you should avoid using or (yes I know I keep mentioning it but it’s important) check with a medical professional.

Always patch test.

CARE

All about calming and hydrating and protecting especially after using chemical exfoliant and retinols.  Choose from hydrating mists, moisturiser, masks and oils.

Water before oils.

Moisturiser is more effective on skin that’s slightly wet so always prep skin with a hydrating mist before applying.

AM – After your cleansers/exfoliants/eye cream/serums you can use a hydrating mist to prep your skin and apply moisturiser if you feel you need it. Then apply a dedicated SPF

PM – After cleansers/exfoliants/treatments you can use hydrating mists then moisturiser and or oil to lock in hydration. If you’ve applied retinol then wait 30-45 mins before this step. On the nights when you’re not using actives and your skin is feeling a dry then leave on night masks are a lovely treatment to use in between.

The Mists

Saturday Skin  £27

Mario Badescu Facial Spray £7

Pixi Hydrating Milky Mist £18

Avene Thermal Spring Water £8.50

Moisturiser/Repair Cream

Chamomile & Rosehip Calming Day Cream £38

La Roche Posay Effaclar H £16

Avene Thermal Cicalfate Repair Cream £7.50

Bioderma Cicabio Creme £7.20

La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume £6.50

Cerave Moisturising Lotion £12

 

The Oils 

AM – Apply last on top of SPF or mix a few drops in with your foundation, this method is really recommended for those with drier skins.

PM – Apply after your moisturiser/repair cream to lock in hydration.

GOW 100% Pure Squalane Oil £9

The Ordinary 100% Cold Pressed Virgin Marula Oil £8.10

GOW 100% Pure Prickly Pear Seed Oil £20

Trilogy Rosehip Oil £19.50

Face Theory Jojoba Oil £11.99

The SPF’s

Let these sink in a good 5-10 mins before applying any oils/make up if you use them.

ELTA MD UV Broad Spectrum SPF 40  £24.00

Alpha H SPF 50 Broad Spectrum £29

La Roche Posay Anthelios Ultra Light SPF 50 £12.38

Murad Oil Free Sunscreen SPF 30 £35

Avene Cream SPF 50 Broad Spectrum £12

 

CANVAS

Primers and foundation.

Not always essential to use both depending on the formula of foundation and quite often I find some SPF’s make good primers. If you do choose a dedicated primer then you’ll want these products to play nicely together. A good rule of thumb is to use from the same brand, if not at least similar or complimentary formulas. Using combinations that don’t mix well, for example a light water based foundation sitting on a heavily formulated silicone primer will go patchy as the day goes on.

Look at the ingredients of a primer and foundation before buying and if one is more loaded with silicones and the other with too many oils it’s going to be a slippy disaster on your face. Too much oil in one and water in the other and it will separate but if the water based has a good balance of oil in it then it should be fine.

If you’re not sure then opt for a foundation that has a built in primer.

Pick formulations based on your skin’s needs.

Hydrating cream/oil/liquid formulas work well for normal to dry skin.

Water based products work well for acne proned/oily skins. Try to avoid products with oils and silicones which can be comedogenic.

Ultimately you need to have a good skincare routine down in order to create a good base before applying primers and foundations. You’ll find products applied after adhere and blend so much better and your make up will last longer.

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